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Post by osalkk on Oct 26, 2020 0:00:32 GMT
Hi everyone,
I just bought the rules and this is the first time I play a wargame and I am super excited! (I normally play D&D). I read the rules and played a trial game and had some questions already. If someone can help, I appreciate it.
So first question is, I have 3x3 mat and do you think 28mm minis can be used. It feels like it will be crowded with reinforcements etc. If so, which ones do you recommend? Bolt action etc?
Second, let's say there is Los and I win. I select who will attack to who and start firing one by one. So let's say first shooter misses and reaction is return fire. Does it happen immediately or do I need to wait for my other team members should finish their shooting( I think so tbh, maybe second man can kill the opponent or make him duck back).
Third, If reaction happens either return fire or duck back or etc, do the opponent needs activation?
Fourth, after the reaction, let's say the opponent return fire, do I have to have an activation ( if third question is yes, this should be yes too)
Fifth, after Los, imagine the opponent team has 4 soldiers, 2 of them are in sight and the rest is behind a big rock. If they shoot, when the turn comes to the guys behind the rock, can they move and shoot? Or should stay behind the cover (there is no duck back etc, they are firing as the first)
Forgive me for lots of questions and thanks in advance.
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Post by Ed the Two Hour Wargames Guy on Oct 26, 2020 18:31:06 GMT
Hi everyone, I just bought the rules and this is the first time I play a wargame and I am super excited! (I normally play D&D). I read the rules and played a trial game and had some questions already. If someone can help, I appreciate it. No worries, this is the place to ask questions.So first question is, I have 3x3 mat and do you think 28mm minis can be used. It feels like it will be crowded with reinforcements etc. If so, which ones do you recommend? Bolt action etc? You could use 15mm and still keep the distances the same. I've used 28mm before on the 3x3 and there's no issue with it. Never saw Bolt Action figures so can't comment. You could also play on a bigger table if you wanted to, just make sure there's 9 sections. Second, let's say there is Los and I win. I select who will attack to who and start firing one by one. So let's say first shooter misses and reaction is return fire. Does it happen immediately or do I need to wait for my other team members should finish their shooting( I think so tbh, maybe second man can kill the opponent or make him duck back). All figures fire first then other side reacts. Firing is simultaneous form all the figures in the group.
Third, If reaction happens either return fire or duck back or etc, do the opponent needs activation? No, they are reacting. So I'm active and fire at you, miss and you return fire. Fourth, after the reaction, let's say the opponent return fire, do I have to have an activation ( if third question is yes, this should be yes too) No, just immediately react.Fifth, after Los, imagine the opponent team has 4 soldiers, 2 of them are in sight and the rest is behind a big rock. If they shoot, when the turn comes to the guys behind the rock, can they move and shoot? The 2 in sight, resolve the combat. When they activate, the other two can step into sight and another test is taken. Or should stay behind the cover (there is no duck back etc, they are firing as the first) Forgive me for lots of questions and thanks in advance. No worries and ask more as they come up.
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Post by blacksmith on Oct 26, 2020 23:27:54 GMT
If you feel 3x3 it's too crowded for 28mm you can play on 4x4 or bigger. As Ed says, the important thing is having 9 sections.
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Post by osalkk on Oct 27, 2020 9:20:24 GMT
Hi everyone, I just bought the rules and this is the first time I play a wargame and I am super excited! (I normally play D&D). I read the rules and played a trial game and had some questions already. If someone can help, I appreciate it. No worries, this is the place to ask questions.So first question is, I have 3x3 mat and do you think 28mm minis can be used. It feels like it will be crowded with reinforcements etc. If so, which ones do you recommend? Bolt action etc? You could use 15mm and still keep the distances the same. I've used 28mm before on the 3x3 and there's no issue with it. Never saw Bolt Action figures so can't comment. You could also play on a bigger table if you wanted to, just make sure there's 9 sections. Second, let's say there is Los and I win. I select who will attack to who and start firing one by one. So let's say first shooter misses and reaction is return fire. Does it happen immediately or do I need to wait for my other team members should finish their shooting( I think so tbh, maybe second man can kill the opponent or make him duck back). All figures fire first then other side reacts. Firing is simultaneous form all the figures in the group.
Third, If reaction happens either return fire or duck back or etc, do the opponent needs activation? No, they are reacting. So I'm active and fire at you, miss and you return fire. Fourth, after the reaction, let's say the opponent return fire, do I have to have an activation ( if third question is yes, this should be yes too) No, just immediately react.Fifth, after Los, imagine the opponent team has 4 soldiers, 2 of them are in sight and the rest is behind a big rock. If they shoot, when the turn comes to the guys behind the rock, can they move and shoot? The 2 in sight, resolve the combat. When they activate, the other two can step into sight and another test is taken. Or should stay behind the cover (there is no duck back etc, they are firing as the first) Forgive me for lots of questions and thanks in advance. No worries and ask more as they come up. Thanks Ed for your reply. So as I understood correctly, my men fire first and when all of them finish firing, the result is , some of the enemy soldiers are dead, some are OOF , some of them return fire and some of them duck back. And without activation the enemy reacts whatever they have to. And as a result of that, my men should react too. And that's a whole combat in a single turn. When all sorted, next turn begins with a new activation roll. If the enemy activates first, I should check NP enemy table and it goes on like that.
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Post by osalkk on Oct 27, 2020 9:22:49 GMT
If you feel 3x3 it's too crowded for 28mm you can play on 4x4 or bigger. As Ed says, the important thing is having 9 sections. Blacksmith , the only reason is I don't have that much space and when I learn the game, I would like to add tanks, AT guns etc so mayeb 1/72(20mm) can be a better option.
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Post by shishmish on Oct 27, 2020 13:19:41 GMT
Blacksmith , the only reason is I don't have that much space and when I learn the game, I would like to add tanks, AT guns etc so mayeb 1/72(20mm) can be a better option. Where did you get 20mm scale? I thought 28mm and 15mm are most common. I have uploaded few of my 15mm pics on Nuts! BGG page so you can get the scale feel..
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Post by atomicfloozy on Oct 27, 2020 15:05:01 GMT
There are actually some very good 20mm lines available. While I am using 28mm for my Eastern Front games, my Spanish Civil War collection is 20mm. I use a 4' X 4' board because that is what I have & so far it has not been too crowded.
Bolt Action is pretty much Warhammer 40K for WWII & they follow the Games Workshop model of continuously producing "must have" miniatures & vehicles. Games of Bolt Action I've seen at conventions were played on 4' X 4' or 4' X 6' tables. I have seen Nuts! Played on an 8' X 8' table, but they were using 54mm figures & it was a 6-8 player game.
The reason I went with 20mm was because of the cost for figures & vehicles is lower than 28mm & equivalent (& sometimes lower) to 15mm. The reason I didn't go with 15mm or 6mm was the lack of female figures.
The only reason I chose 28mm was to provide an excuse for buying Bad Squiddo Games' female Soviets.
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Post by shishmish on Oct 27, 2020 15:45:33 GMT
If you can differentiate between a male and female in 6/15mm, then we are talking about.. quite gifted female 15mm gets you more stuff on the table and actual space to maneuver, instead of head-on collide. 28mm, yes, it is hard to resist the need to have great figures (guilty!). I use Armored Cartographers maps and play exclusively on them with my 28mm (even Lego! you can change weapons! Lego with AK! Beat that!) as there is just no space to have terrain in all the scales. Did I mention Legos? With AK!
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Post by osalkk on Oct 27, 2020 15:54:46 GMT
Blacksmith , the only reason is I don't have that much space and when I learn the game, I would like to add tanks, AT guns etc so mayeb 1/72(20mm) can be a better option. Where did you get 20mm scale? I thought 28mm and 15mm are most common. I have uploaded few of my 15mm pics on Nuts! BGG page so you can get the scale feel.. I am/will also use 20mm figures for myself (Airfix 1/72 German and US troops), they are cheap and painting them is not that hard (of course I prefer to paint and play 28mm, easier and much more details). Below 20mm, I'm not sure if they will look ok for me when they are painted(never tried) so I think I'll stick to 20mm for now for my 3x3 table.
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Post by atomicfloozy on Oct 27, 2020 16:00:44 GMT
It's not the bustline. It's the hair poking out from under the helmet or cap & in some poses, the curve of the hips (our legs are set in the hips at a different angle from men to make it easier to pop out babies). I can't remember the name of the company, but I've seen greens of 6mm female Soviet snipers to be released soon.
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Post by shishmish on Oct 27, 2020 16:26:43 GMT
It's not the bustline. It's the hair poking out from under the helmet or cap & in some poses, the curve of the hips (our legs are set in the hips at a different angle from men to make it easier to pop out babies). I can't remember the name of the company, but I've seen greens of 6mm female Soviet snipers to be released soon. My point of reference is the only infantry thing I have, prepainted Axis & Allies miniatures and those are plastic blobs with paint splashes made by blind drunk At 15mm that miniature would need quite good mold, and my aging eyes wouldn't see the difference so I didn't bother anyway. But 28mm is whole different story, female figure and posture could be seen from the other side of the table and they look amazing...
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Post by Ed the Two Hour Wargames Guy on Oct 27, 2020 19:37:16 GMT
Thanks Ed for your reply. So as I understood correctly, my men fire first and when all of them finish firing, the result is , some of the enemy soldiers are dead, some are OOF , some of them return fire and some of them duck back. And without activation the enemy reacts whatever they have to. And as a result of that, my men should react too. And that's a whole combat in a single turn. When all sorted, next turn begins with a new activation roll. If the enemy activates first, I should check NP enemy table and it goes on like that. Exactly. You got it.
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Post by Ed the Two Hour Wargames Guy on Oct 27, 2020 19:39:20 GMT
The free updated rules for NUTS will make it even smoother.
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Post by blacksmith on Oct 27, 2020 19:45:20 GMT
We were talking about this on the Facebook Nuts! group. I'm using 1/72 scale soft plastic soldiers. IMEX, Italeri, Caesar, etc. You can visit Plastic Soldiers and see the huge variety of models for WWII: link
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Post by blacksmith on Oct 27, 2020 19:48:51 GMT
Blacksmith , the only reason is I don't have that much space and when I learn the game, I would like to add tanks, AT guns etc so mayeb 1/72(20mm) can be a better option. Where did you get 20mm scale? I thought 28mm and 15mm are most common. I have uploaded few of my 15mm pics on Nuts! BGG page so you can get the scale feel.. Many scenarios from Blood Upon the Risers are 5x3 feet and I'm using my bed to play as I neither have much space. Below you have my daughter's bed converted into a game table:
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